It’s not an area of Paris that you’d be likely to know or visit if you don’t live here, but, like the 9th, its local, quartier vibes give you the sense that it’s mostly made up of Parisians living their daily lives. It’s maybe a bit more student-y than the bougie 9th, but I’ve been most impressed with the *incredible* selection of entirely vegan places in this neighbourhood, which puts it right up there with my favourites (and is the reason I keep going back, despite how far these places are from where I live!), even if it’s not the most traditionally Parisian.
VG vegan pâtisserie
You heard me right - a vegan patisserie, and one so convincing in its ressemblance of a standard Parisian patisserie that even I had to check. Their chocolate and hazelnut loaf cake was potentially the best cake I have ever tasted, and I couldn’t resist grabbing a vegan cinnamon roll and pain au chocolat for the freezer while I was there. With a selection of plant-based coffees and infusions, it’s a perfect spot for brunch, and worth the trip as far as the 11th!
Aujourd’hui demain
Clothes-shop-cum-vegan-supermarket-cum-cafe-cum-zero waste dispensary, I think this is what they call a concept store, and I am certainly on board with the concept. With tasty and creative plant-based food, layer cakes to die for, brunch boxes and matcha lattes, they definitely have a target audience, but I genuinely believe this type of business model is the way to make the world a better place, and get plenty of good food along the way! For lockdown they have released a brunch-box on the weekends, which is an absolute feast, but, in my opinion, enough to convince anyone to go plant-based.
Place de la Republique
A popular meeting point for people of all ages, there’s always something going on at this huge place, around where the 10th meets the 11th. From protests to skateboarding, its a hub of activity, and is, I think, marks a bit of a transition from the very classical Paris along the banks of the Seine, into some of the slightly edgier, less touristy and more truly Parisian areas like Canal St Martin, Boulevard Magenta into the 9th, and the bustling bouvelards of the 10th.
Comptoir Veggie
A beautiful experience all round: this one really is a shame that we can’t sit in, because the decor was just gorgeous, and substance equalled style in my buddha bowl and rose cardommom latte. Entirely vegan, not too pricey, high-quality and creative stuff well-presented, alongside super friendly serice and plenty of choice. A real favourite favourite find, if this was next to my apartment I wouldn’t eat anywhere else.
Petites pâtisseries raw et vegan
Just next door to Aujourd’hui demain is a tiny little pâtisserie which, you guessed it, is entirely vegan. Serving both sweet and savoury, everything in their looks just as indulgent as your average pâtisserie, with some really creative and aesthetic cakes, tarts and petits fours, and all without environmental guilt!
Grounded
If I could recommed one place in the 11th, and potentially even in Paris, it’s this vegan coffee shop. Only open on weekend mornings during COVID, their rolls seem to have a bit of a reputation, and the hype when they announce the flavours for the upcoming weekend on their instagram story is major. With combinations like date and pecan, apple and almond, banana coconut chocolate, and black sesame and white chocolate, these sweet rolls are really not to be missed. They also have savoury options and other plant-based indulgences, as well as a whole range of hot drinks. Rolls from Grounded has become a bit of a weekend tradition, and I’m beginning to think I might be addicted ...
Bastille Market
Just off Place de la Bastille, I stumbled upon this pop up market one Friday and was delighted to stroll through the stalls of local produce, from bread to flowers. One of the smaller markets I’ve seen, it seemed to be less one where you’d do your weekly vegetable shop, as go to pick up something a bit special, and made a lovely stroll on a sunny afternoon.
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