While you’ve got to love the 1st-6th arrondissements, straddling the Seine and packed with grandiose Parisian palaces and apartment blocks, some of the areas a little further from the centre-centre have a charm of their own. The 19th, around Belleville, far from being sleepy and residential, has bustling vibes of locals going about their daily business, and the more I see of it, the more I enjoy North Paris. Maybe I’m biaised because I live up towards Pigalle, but I’ve also heard that in normal times it’s one of the best areas for nightlife. We’ll have to wait and see about that, but for now the 19th and out into the 20th has offered some great finds.
Cite Lefroy
Just off Rue des Pyrenees, and I can’t say exactly where because I didn’t manage to find it on the map, is a little cul-de-sac called Cite Lefroy, marked by a cherry blossom tree, and just next to it is a tiny allotment garden with mirrors and various other tinkly decorations, designed by the local community as a calm spot away from the bustle of the city. Very much a hidden gem, which felt like it put spring in the air.
Père Lachaise
Potentially the only reason you’d venture out to the 20th if you don’t live there is the huge Pere Lachaise cemetery. Sounds a little morbid, but Parisian graveyards really are a separate ballgame. Anyone who’s visited the Montmartre cemetery will know that the imposing family tombs, of which you can see a variety of styles as preferences have changed over the centuries, are really quite a sight to behold. For the fan girls amongst us, you can even check out the ground-map and hunt out the more famous graves. We weren’t very successful (or especially committed) in our search, but if you look out you could spot the graves of Colette, Edith Piaf, and some more obscure French literary figures which you may or may not find exciting ...
Parc Buttes-Chaumont
At the moment, Buttes-Chaumont is in the running for my very favourite Parisian park. It’s big, with some interesting features, a little lake, a pagoda and many ups and downs, and is ideal for a picnic. It’s always full, and often overwhelmed with runners on a Sunday morning. It’s beautiful all by itself and also has some great views out across Paris and over to the Sacre Coeur. As spring kicks in, it’s going to become a real favourite.
Parc de la Vilette
If you walk all the way up along Canal St Martin, and I mean all the way up, you’ll eventually come to Parc de la Vilette, right up there at the top of the 19th. It’s got big lawns, a performance hall, and some funky abstract structures. Ideal for a picnic or a weekend wander, I get the impression that in normal times there’d be lots going on here. I saw a few kids’ clubs and workout groups while I was there, and I think it will be a popular one as summer approaches.