Another one that I very much can’t claim credit for finding, I’d visited Marais on previous visits to Paris, and was also re-introduced to it on one of my first weekends by a visit there with the Parismus group (a society for Erasmus students at the Sorbonne). ‘Marais’ literally means swamp, and it’s one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris, with tiny winding streets and crooked buildings which really cast you back to when people were first settling in Paris. It’s known for generally artsy vibes, with several museums, lots of art stores and clothes shops, as well as, of course, cafes, bakeries and restaurants. I’m still not exactly sure what constitutes the ‘borders’ of the Marais, but it seems to span both the 3rd and 4th districts. It’s quite east from where I am, and seems to start all the way across by the Hotel de Ville, a huge and beautiful town hall building just off the Seine.
L’As du Falafel
Potentially the most unoriginal favourite find ever. Slap bang in the middle of Rue des Rosiers, the cobbled street at the heart of the Marais is the institution known as L’As du Falafel, essentially a fast-food stand, selling a range of traditional Israeli cuisine, but famous for their falafel sandwich. The queues have been enormous every time I’ve walked past, but they’ve got a rapidly efficient system and it’s well worth the wait. Again, not original, but it probably is the best falafel sandwich I’ve ever had, masterfully constructed to make the eating process easy (not a given with any combination of flatbread and sauce), and with some grilled aubergine which was actually life-affirming. Filling, tasty, fresh and reasonably priced, there really is no reason to get falafel from anywhere else.
Marche des Enfants Rouges
Frequently mentioned in 19th century French literature, this covered market is another Marais institution, mostly offering various sorts of streetfood from all over the world across a range of independent stalls. I didn’t actually try any of the food when I visited, but it’s definitely one to return to with friends, if the choice doesn’t prove too overwhelming.
Gramme
Located along one of the main arteries of the Marais, Rue des Archives, this tiny little cafe and coffee shop had a surprisingly broad menu with an impressive vegan option, a banh-mi ‘dog’ with fried sesame and tofu balls. Friendly staff, amazing smells and generally good vibes, I think this would be one to revisit if we’re ever allowed to sit in again.
Centre d’etudes catalanes
One of the handful of humanities-specific Sorbonne libraries scattered across the city, it’s easy to miss this diddy little research centre, on the corner of (2 streets), with a small library of about 10 places on the first floor. It felt much more niche than BSG, which is open to the public as well, and has great views of the surrounding streets, in classic close-packed Marais style. A lovely little quiet spot to get some work done.
Kitchen
I don’t know if this far up in the 3rd arrondissement counts as Marais, but it’s definitely located on one of the old-style little winding streets that are typical of this part of Paris. Relatively tucked away but clearly popular, with a queue at lunchtime, this homely little cafe has a great range of hot dishes, baked goods and brunches. From banana bread to bagels to pancakes and vegetable stew, it wasn’t exclusively veggie, but had some good options and I was happy with the home-cooked vibes. Definitely a great range, and well-suited for any time of day.
Le Loir dans la Théière
Situated on Rue des Rosiers right in the heart of the Marais, it’s not hard to find, but this one doesn’t feel like it’s catering too much to tourists. The interior is a cosy coffee shop, with a selection of absolutely beautiful signature French tarts and a huge meringue pie. We went for a light lunch, from the daily menu, which featured classic dishes like savoury tarts and omelettes. A lovely location to sit and watch the world go by and enjoy some traditional French vibes.
