Saj
Described by google maps as a ‘crêperie’, this is not your average French pancake place. It’s fully vegetarian, and rather than crêpes or galettes, they serve something much closer to flatbread, with a variety of fillings or toppings depending on what you go for, hummus and dips, sweet and savoury. Reasonably priced with friendly service, interesting combinations and delightful decor, and they are even willing to provide ice cubes in the case of a re-sprained ankle. Definitely worth a visit for a plant-based lunch right in the heart of the old town.
La Belle Saison
Another unexpected find in the centre of the old town, this typical French-style bistrot would fool any meat-eater not looking closely, and is in fact entirely vegetarian, not to mention organic and locally sourced. With a small, hand-picked weekly menu, it takes the best bits of traditional French cuisine with an added environmentally beneficial twist, and serves up hearty and exciting food by doing so. I went for the boulettes d’aubergine (meaty, melt in the mouth aubergine meatballs), served with panisse ‘chips’ and, of course, some classic baguette.
The Healer
Not quite as original or authentic as Saj or La Belle Saison, this American-style health cafe is just about as basic as it gets for a vegan gym bunny, but when the glove fits … With an amazing selection of lattes, smoothies, sweet and savoury bowls, energy bites and salads, it’s not a big place, so you might have to fight for a table, but the food is worth it to-go as well. Indulgent and delicious but also balanced and nutritious, it really is a good location for some alternative healthy cuisine, and it doesn’t come at the extortionate prices I’m used to in Paris either. I’d recommend the raw cacao latte, and am eager to revisit to try their savoury bowls.
Paper Planes
Artsy and cosy, this little restaurant just outside of the old town offers a very creative and colourful menu. With a weekly changing selection of starters and mains, it’s a perfect spot for lunch, with everything from gaspachio to hummus and homemade crackers, it’s all seasonal and all delicious. I couldn’t resist the option of having all three starters as a main dish (their idea not mine), and I’m almost sorry I didn’t opt for a dessert …
Utopia
A bit further across town from our apartment, this vegan bistrot a few streets back from the port was well worth the walk, and made for a lovely evening out. They have quite a big menu of mostly Italian style food, but done vegan. It was innovative and high quality, the service was friendly and the portions generous. Not the cheapest, but definitely value, it was perfect for a bit of a special meal out, and had plenty of options to please anyone.
Saint-Paul
A walk-in find on our penultimate night, this bar on Place Garibaldi was exactly the vibe we were looking for, with reasonably priced Aperol and a mouth-watering selection of modern tapas dishes. You can’t go wrong with good guacamole and a view like this one for a bit of a summery after work celebration.
La Dame au Cerf
I walked past this place almost every day on my way from my language course to the old town, and when I eventually got round to visiting it didn’t disappoint. A must-do location for vegan coffee and cake, with an outstanding selection of homemade lattes (with everything from chai and matcha to blue dream, chicory, pink maca and more, all served hot or cold) and dreamy vegan bakes, it’s also a perfect spot for an unexpectedly reasonably priced soy yogurt and granola breakfast bowl, or a light lunch. When I asked to order a sandwich and they told me it would be a bit of a wait because they had to bake the bread first, I knew I was in the right place, and my vegan cheese and vegetable toastie on a homemade bun was genuinely one of the very best sandwiches of my enirely life.
Not Dog
Does pretty much what it says on the tin: a ‘hot-dog’ joint on the edge of the old town, serving up reasonably priced sausage and burger substitutes in homemade bread. Vegan fast food at it’s best, and still with a touch of French style.
Pékin
The words ‘vegan’ and ‘all you can eat Chinese buffet’ don’t often come together, but when they do it’s a beautiful occasion, and Pékin did not disappoint. With a huge selection of entrées, as well as an entire section where you can choose your raw vegetables and tofu to go in the wok, it’s definitely one to take your time over, and I might not have paced myself quite enough with the fried goodies … It’s run by a lovely couple who make you feel very welcome, the food really is good quality, well above your average Chinese buffet, I’d recommend not planning to eat for the rest of the day, but when it’s all plant-based, you can’t really go wrong, can you?
Vabbuo
My review of this Napolitan restaurant is very simple: go there for amazing pizza and Italian vibes - for an added bonus, go on the same night as a European Championship final in which Italy are playing, just don’t let them know you’re English.
Hobo
Beautifully located just off the main square of the old town, this chic cafe has clear Anglophone vibes, but serves up a good selection of trendy bites, and, of course, matcha lattes. Not the best matcha (my tip would be go for the iced oat milk rather than hot soy if you don’t like it too sweet) I’ve had in my life, but worth it for the aesthetic decor and ideal location. Spoilt only by a seemingly never-ending protest the weekend after Macron announced the introduction of the pass sanitaire - but that all adds to the cultural experience I guess.
Badaboom
It’s a shame that this vegan cafe by the port only reopened on July 19th, otherwise I think I would have been there everyday. A small local menu with some really creative combinations, including the classic Nicois sandwich (pain bagnat), vegan parmentier (a bit like shepherds pie), and chesnut bread, everything was wholesome and nutritious, on the expensive side but proportional to the quality, there was an impressive choice and lovely service. Definitely one to return to.
