The typical response when I tell people I’m vegetarian and 90-95% vegan is ‘well good luck with that in Paris’. And it’s true to a certain extent: you can’t just pop into the average boulangerie and get a quick sandwich. But Paris is also a major cosmopolitan capital, and I’ve been pleasantly surprised at the number of vegan options in ordinary restaurants. I’ve been most impressed, though, by the specifically vegan cafes and foodie spots which have been well worth hunting out. The winning arrondissement for vegan finds is the 11th, and you can read more about those *here*. The others are spread across various part of Paris, and were a mixture of spontaneous discoveries and specific recommendations.
Joy in food (17th)
This place really lived up to its name. A perfect example of what I call ‘happy food’, the plat du jour of this little vegetarian restaurant set up at a window to sell à emporter, was composed of a tasty mix of pasta, couscous, bulgar, potatoes and more, all cooked with tantalising flavour combinations and plenty of veggies. It felt hearty and wholesome, nutritious and nourishing. On top of this, the lady who served me was absolutely delighful, incredibly helpful, and even offered me a free slice of orange and almond vegan chocolate cake! At a 10 minute walk away from my apartment on the other side of Place de Clichy, this is definitely going to become a regular!
Maisie cafe (2nd)
Located just off Place Vendome in one of the classiest areas of town, I think this place would ordinarily be pretty pricey, and even as a TooGoodToGo it wasn’t super cheap. The food (a sweet potato and coconut soup, a pasta broth, and an orange blossom plant-based dessert) was very tasty, and quite delicate. Not the most mind-blowing vegan food I’ve ever had, but a sweet location and a nice option if I’m nearby.
Cloud cakes (2nd)
This place is all that the world needs. With a mouth-watering selection of vegan patisseries, brunch plates, granola bowls, sandwiches and soups, it really wasn’t too expensive, especially given its location in the 2nd arrondisement, and I’m happy to pay good money for an almond croissant which I don’t have to compromise on my veganism for. Their homemade granola with oat milk was rich and indulgent, nutty and not too sweet, and the beautifully pink beetroot and ginger oat-milk latte topped off a vegan brunch to die for.
Florian (8th)
Tucked away in the aesthetic but quiet 8th arrondissement, more of a residential and professional area not far from the Arc de Triomphe, this place was one of many on the street catering to city workers popping out for their lunchtime formule, but it stood out in its emphasis on organic and vegan food. It came with a Paris price tag, but was good quality and a generous portion. With a seasonal weekly menu of two dishes to choose from each day, there was enough variety but not too much to overwhelm, and it’s the kind of place where you can tell that whatever they serve you it’s going to be good.
Yem’a (9th)
Another working lunch type place, this time really not too far from me, this vegan salad bar has a daily changing selection of dishes which make up the plate of the day. Tasty and satisfying, creative but not too out there, it’s happy food at it’s best, and came with friendly service, and a complement on my bamboo takeaway container.
Imagine (18th)
Already featured in my Montmartre addition, this cute little health food place is proof that good for you doesn’t have to mean boring, with colourful savoury dishes, hot drinks, and a selection of plant-based refined sugar-free cakes that are just say tasty as they are healthy.
Friendly Kitchen (11th)
This one was always going to get a good review because it was my very first lunch en terrasse, and it more than lived up to the occasion. A little fancier than some of the to-go lunches I’ve been having, the presentation was exquisite, the flavours were creative and well composed, and there was plenty of choice. It felt like quality food and was priced accordingly, but for a celebratory lunch their formule de midi was ideal. My only regret was not getting a dessert!
Le Faitout (19th)
Up in the 19th, a stone’s throw from Buttes-Chaumont, the location of this vegan bistrot (that‘s right, a vegan bistrot), couldn’t be more ideal, and neither could the menu. You really have to do a second take when you read it: it has everything from starters and mains to charcuterie and cheese platters, which is what we went for because we were so very intrigued. Turns out of their ‘sausages’ and ‘pâtés’ are made onsite from a variety of different bases (such as beans, oil, gluten), and all of their cheeses too, which are soy-milk based, in order to avoid the environmental impact of imported cashew milk. The service was friendly, they serve all day so we had a relaxed time, and the baskets of bread to mop up these amazing spreadable vegan creations just kept coming. Inexpensive and genuinely impressive, I can’t recommend this place enough.
Resto Naturo (11th)
Another 11th arrondissment find, this little restaurant was less trendy modern vegan vibes as more typically ’hippy’ vegan health food. The food was amazing and actually very simple, with a lot of emphasis on nourishment and vitamins, alongside tastiness. I can’t fault the food or the service, and I think we need more restaurants like this which normalise eating for health, but I can see how the insistence on this side of things might be off putting, even though the food itself was tasty and actually very simple.
Hélou (19th)
Usually a co-working space, tucked away on the adorable Rue de la Vilette, this vegetarian cafe and lunch spot has absolutely everything you need: daily changing choice of two ‘bowls’, packed with goodness and colour; a selection of colourful vegan lattes, drinks and scrummy-looking sweet treats, plus a beautiful interior. Creative, tasty, and nutritious, I can’t wait to go back, and hopefully sit in!
L’Embuscade (9th)
An absolute favourite favourite, I’m so glad that this afro-vegan restaurant and bar is just 10 minutes from my apartment. Simple, wholesome food with several ingredients I’d never heard of, with enough variety to keep you coming back but not too much to be overwhelmed, their savoury bowls proved just as tasty and satisfying as their sweet offerings, in a lunchtime formule which made it difficult to resist adding on a choco hazelnut flapjack for just €2. Inexpensive, happy and colourful food which showcases just how much fun vegans can have, it’s already a go-to.
La Cantine de Sam (9th)
On the same street as L’Embuscade and just as impressive, this vegetarian restaurant is beautifully decorated and has an impressive range of dishes, from bowls to burgers to adaptations of traditional dishes. Another example of happy food, it was delicious, creative and nutrient-packed, but also hearty and satisfying. Definitely worth another visit to try more of the impressive range of what they have on offer!
My Kitch’n (17th)
Hidden away on the tranquil Rue Lemercier in the bougie Batignolles, the slightly sixties revolutionary vibes of this little vegan cafe are a little surprising, and I’m still not entirely sure what the overarching concept is, but there was a good range of different types of dishes, all bio and vegan, and even a little outdoor terrace. Service was very friendly and I like the idea, even if it was a little pricey.
42 degrès
A raw, organic, gluten-free, vegan restaurant, I can understand why this one might be a little far for some people’s taste. It’s fancy, and usually one I‘d have got the parents to treat me to, with main dishes upwards of €18, but the menu du jour was a steal at €15 for entrée + plat. Presentation was exquisite, and the substance matched the style. More of a fine dining experience, flavours was creative and unusual, and I‘d say it was a real culinary experience. I’d be careful about exactly who I recommend it to, but for a fancy dinner I’d definitely go back.
Le potager de Charlotte (9th)
It’s a miracle that I hadn’t tried the vegan restaurant which is located literally on the street my host family lives on sooner, but I’d be saving it for the opening of the terrasses, and it was definitelt worth the wait. It lived to its wholesome homely name, with a small selection of simple dishes, which felt like good things done well. Much less experimental than your standard vegan restaurant, most of the dishes are twists on old favourites, and my ‘carbonara’ was just delicious, and, I think, better than the real thing! Service was an absolute delight, the staff were clearly buzzing to have people sitting in again after so long, and the atmosphere was also really enjoyable.
Fabulous vibes and tasty food, good portions and handy location, simple stuff with a touch of finesse, it really has everything you need in a restaurant.
BrEAThe (9th)
Another one just round the corner, this was potentially my favourite terrasse lunch. With a relatively small but incredibly varied menu, all of their creations sounded absolutely amazing and it was very difficult to choose. Situated on a lively street in the 9th, it was a perfect place to sit and watch the world go by while enjoying some genuinely delicious food. Despite the unconventional and innovative menu, the overall feel of the restaurant was very traditionally French, and satisfied the need for bistro culture which you can’t always make the most of as a non-meat eater. It was clearly popular, the staff were friendly, and it feels like the kind of place you could go back to as a regular.
Jah Jah by Le Tricycle
A buzzing vegan hub in the heart of the 10th, tucked away on Rue des Petites Écuries, between the two arteries running through this part of town, rue du Faubourg St Denis and St Martin, it’s already a lively, diverse area, and this afro-style cafe fitted right in. With a great range of bowls, juices, savoury plates and coffees, packed with bold flavours and lots of veggie goodness, just choosing between the bol chaud and the bol froid was a struggle. Nutritious food done well, it’s the kind of place that makes healthy eating fun, and even makes it feel indulgent! Definitely happy food, and definitely a favourite favourite find.
Vegeta (1st)
Right in the heart of the little streets between Opéra and Louvre, this is a vegan salad bar with a difference. Serving to-go Monday to Friday, it’s clearly meant for weekday working lunches, but is much more exciting than the standard offering, with a bol à composer, made up of a choice of wholegrain, vegan protein, sauce, and lots of veggie. Quick and easy, but also tasty and good for you, and very much not first arrondissment prices, it’s an absolute winner.
Le Potager du Marais (3rd)
Tucked away on a quite street by St Paul metro station, this adorable bistrot was friendly and exceptionally welcoming, and made a great location for a group dinner. With an entirely vegan menu which creatively replicates more traditional French dishes, it was a real crowd pleaser. The dish of the day was a chilli sin carne, and out of a dfficult choice with everything from soya stake to seitan ragu, I went for a ‘seafood’ bake, made from smoked tofu and red lentils.
Le Mhyra (18th)
This plant-based cantine was closed for renovations for most of my stay in Paris, and if it hadn’t only opened up in my last week, I would have visited at least weekly. Weekly changing menus, reasonably priced, fresh and organic, satisfying and nutritious dishes, all a 25 minute walk from my apartment in a spacious and relaxed atmosphere, it literally has everything I would ask for in a restaurant. A real favourite favourite find.
Land + Monkeys (3rd, 9th)
I’d heard about this entirely vegan boulangerie and patisserie in the Marais and was planning a trip, when another branch popped up on my very own street! Not only was this a very lucky coincidence, but it turned out to be particularly handy as well. With everything from petits fours to patisseries to baguettes and loaves of bread, seitan and tofu sandwiches, quiches and salads, it really did have everything you‘d expect from a standard boulangerie, so much so that you’d even be forgiven for not realising it was entirely vegan …
Happiz (5th)
Pizza tends to be one of the pinch-points when it comes to eating out as a vegan - I don’t think the Italians love the idea of vegan mozzarella, and so it’s usually only at specialist places that you can get something which comes close, and that’s where Happiz comes in! Not only vegan but also gluten free, the menu is entirely flexible to customise your own pizza, with everythin from veggies to vegan cheese and meat substitutes. Friendly service and tasty food, and a great location sitting just on Rue Monge in the heart of the Latin Quarter.
Vege (15th)
Well worth the walk, especially if you take the route which goes via Concorde and Invalides, this vegetarian Turkish restaurant is tucked away in a residential but lively corner of the 15th arrondissement, and offers all the dips, flatbread, wraps, falafel and mezzes that a non-meat-eating heart could desire. This time round was a second visit, having been so impressed when I visited on a weekend trip in 2019, so I’ve sampled a pretty could selection of what they have on offer, and the flavours, variety, and freshness have continually impressed.
Some quick fire favourites (already featured in my 11e edition of favourite finds):
Comptoir veggie (actually in the 12th whoops): for Buddha bowls and beautiful lattes
Aujourd’hui demain: for indulgent cakes, brunch boxes, and all-round vegan lifestyle
Grounded: for the best vegan rolls ever