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Provins: chateaux, crêpes and rose-flavoured everything

Now that we’re fully in the swing of the progressive déconfinement, things have got a lot more exciting, with there being a lot more to do in and outside of Paris. One of my first proper trips out post-opening up was to Provins, a little medieval town about an hour and a half south west of Paris.


Provins is well known as one of the best-preserved medieval towns, and it’s incredibly easy to get to, you just hop on a regional train from Gare de l’Est and stick with it to the terminus. You arrive at a tiny little station which seems to serve exclusively for trains to Paris. We got the impression that the town would typically be full of American tourists and school groups during the summer months, so we actually got lucky being able to go while international travel is tricky.


It’s a quaint little place and easily doable in a day (we got an early train but were back in Paris before 5pm), and you really do get the impression that you’ve gone back in time. Some of the various ramparts, church towers, and fortresses have had a bit of wear and tear over the years, but even the side streets and houses look like they haven’t changed. Amidst hunting down the important landmarks we kept coming back to the central Place du Châtel, a square with lots of restaurants, a fairground, and some shops selling regional specialities (I’ll come back to this). Bustling is maybe a bit too strong, but as it approached lunchtime the town started to come awake, and the creperis we opted for had a good atmosphere. I don’t think anyone there had heard of veganism, and we, as two 21 year olds, lowered the average age of the 5km radius significantly, but the tranquil village vibes made for a break from the cosmopolitan hustle and bustle of the city.


What I didn’t know about Provins before I came was that they are famous for the ‘Provins rose’, a specific variety of rose believed to have been brought from the Middle East by a duke who played a key role in the town’s history. This means that nowadays they sell rose flavoured everything, and I mean literally everything. Alongside the obvious soaps and candles, I was intrigued by vinegars and honey, and less convinced by rose-flavoured mustard.

It’s a scenic spot, and definitely worth the day trip, but I was very happy when the regional line brought us back at the end of the day to 21st century Paris, which I’d missed more than I thought I might.

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